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Red Cap Oranda Goldfish small (Pair)

4.9 store rating · 2,120+ reviews

Regular price Rs. 260.00
Sale price Rs. 260.00
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A snow-white goldfish wearing a scarlet crown. The Red Cap is the cleanest colour scheme in the goldfish world: a pure white body and flowing white fins, with the colour confined entirely to a raised red wen sitting on top of the head like a cap. In a good fish the red stops neatly at the eyes and gill covers, and nothing else on the body carries colour at all.

Underneath the cap it is a classic oranda — an egg-shaped, twin-tailed, line-bred variety with a full dorsal fin and the fleshy head growth called the wen. That wen is soft tissue, not bone, and it is not finished when you buy the fish: it keeps building for the first two or three years with clean water and a rich diet. A Red Cap bought with a neat little bump on the forehead should be carrying a proper hood by its second birthday, and it will live well over a decade if the tank is right.

Water volume decides everything: 100 litres for the first, 40 more for each extra.

Goldfish produce far more waste than tropical fish of the same size, and a 15–20 cm adult oranda in a small tank lives in its own ammonia. Stunting, ragged fins, a wen that never develops and endless bacterial infections all trace back to too little water. If you can give a pair 150 litres with strong filtration, a Red Cap is a straightforward, long-lived fish. If you cannot, choose something else.

Care Snapshot

Scientific name Carassius auratus
Also known as Red Cap, Tancho Oranda, Red Cap Goldfish; a line-bred oranda variety of the goldfish
Family Cyprinidae — carps and minnows
Origin Line-bred variety developed in China and refined in Japan; farm-bred stock
Adult size 15–20 cm including the tail
Lifespan 10–15 years, often longer
Minimum tank 100 litres for one, plus about 40 litres for each additional fish
Temperature 18–24 °C ideal; stressed above about 28 °C
pH 7.0–8.0
Hardness 8–20 dGH — moderately hard to hard
Diet Omnivore — sinking pellets, vegetables and meaty foods
Temperament Peaceful; slow-moving and social
Care level Moderate — hardy fish, demanding water quality
Swimming zone All levels, mostly middle and lower

Setting Up For It

  • Filtration rated for two to three times the tank. A large canister, a hang-on-back with sponge pre-filter, or a pair of big sponge filters. Goldfish load a tank with ammonia quickly; turnover and biological capacity matter more than anything else.
  • Change 40–50% of the water every week. Nitrate climbs fast with goldfish, and the wen is one of the first places poor water shows up — as white spots, pitting or infection in the folds. Match the temperature and dechlorinate every time.
  • Smooth décor and plenty of open water. A heavy-bodied, long-finned fish with a soft head growth needs swimming room, not a crowded aquascape. Rounded stones, smooth driftwood and hardy plants such as Anubias, Java fern and Vallisneria.
  • Moderate, spread-out flow. Orandas are not built for current. Use a spray bar or a baffled outlet so the fish can hover without fighting the water.
  • Fine sand or bare bottom. Goldfish sift the substrate constantly and can jam small gravel in the mouth. Sand or a bare base is safer and much easier to keep clean.

Tank Mates

Good matches

Other fancy goldfish of similar build: orandas of any colour, ryukins, fantails, pearlscales and ranchus. Hillstream loaches and White Cloud Minnows also enjoy the same cool water.

Keep away from

Tropical community fish — the temperatures simply do not overlap. Single-tailed comets, sarasas and shubunkins, which out-swim fancies to every meal. Plecos and suckermouth algae eaters, which rasp at the slime coat of slow goldfish. Any fin-nipper, and anything small enough to be swallowed.

Bubble eyes and telescopes are better kept separately unless all the fish in the tank are equally slow.

Feeding — Feed The Wen, Spare The Swim Bladder

A round-bodied oranda has a compressed swim bladder, and gulping dry floating food from the surface is the classic route to floating upside-down or struggling to stay level. Sinking pellets, or floating food soaked for a few minutes before it goes in, solve most of it.

Feed two small meals a day, only what is cleared in a minute or two. From the AQA range, a sinking goldfish pellet makes a sound staple; add blanched, shelled peas once or twice a week and protein-rich frozen foods regularly — a well-fed oranda is the one that grows a good hood.

Foods they take eagerly: sinking goldfish pellets, gel food, frozen bloodworm and brine shrimp, daphnia, blanched peas, spinach and courgette.

Sexing & Breeding

Outside the spawning season goldfish are hard to sex. In cooler months males develop small white breeding tubercles on the gill covers and leading pectoral rays and chase the females relentlessly; females grow noticeably fuller in the body when carrying eggs.

Spawning is triggered by rising temperature and longer days after a cooler spell. Eggs scatter over plants or a spawning mop and are eaten if left with the adults. Expect most of the young to come out plain or partly coloured: a clean red cap on a fully white body is genuinely hard to breed true, which is exactly why a good one costs what it does.

Keeping It In Indian Conditions

  • Summer heat is the real danger. In much of India tanks climb past 30 °C in April and May, and that is what kills more goldfish than any disease. Keep the tank out of direct sun, in the coolest room, with a fan blowing across the surface and an air stone running day and night.
  • Bengaluru helps, but not completely. Our climate is kinder than the plains, yet an unshaded tank near a west window still overheats. Check with a thermometer in the afternoon, not the morning.
  • Plan for power cuts. A tank full of goldfish uses oxygen fast, and warm monsoon water holds little of it. A battery air pump or an inverter line for the filter is part of keeping orandas, not an extra.
  • Hard tap water is fine. Goldfish are perfectly happy in India's hard, alkaline borewell and corporation water once it is dechlorinated. Water volume and change frequency matter far more than chemistry.
  • No bowls, no small tanks. Goldfish bowls and 20–40 litre tanks are still sold widely in India for goldfish. They are the main reason goldfish are thought to be short-lived. Please do not use them.

What You Receive

Farm-bred young orandas, quarantined and conditioned at our Bengaluru facility before dispatch. Where listed as a pair you receive two fish; sex cannot be guaranteed at this size. Labels such as "A grade" or "XL" describe the fish we select for that listing. The cap is a small bump on young fish and grows with age and good feeding; its exact outline is individual, and occasionally a fish's red shifts or fades over the years. Packed with oxygen and insulation for pan-India delivery.

Covered by the Best4Pets live arrival guarantee. Please film an unboxing video before opening the bag — it is required for any DOA claim.

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