Brochis splendens

Name: Brochis splendens
Brand: Best4Pets
Price: 666.0 INR
Availability: InStock

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<p style="font-size:18px;line-height:1.6;margin:0 0 18px;color:#EAF0F5;">
<strong style="color:#FFFFFF;">A corydoras built one size up.</strong> The Emerald Catfish is deeper-bodied, broader-shouldered and noticeably larger than the common corys most people start with, and it carries a metallic blue-green sheen across the flank that catches the light as it turns. The tall, almost sail-like dorsal fin is the giveaway — a dozen rays where a Bronze Cory has seven.
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Everything else is pure corydoras: peaceful, sociable, permanently busy, and happiest in a group working its way across open sand. They sift mouthfuls of substrate for food, rest in loose piles under wood, and periodically dash to the surface for a gulp of air before dropping back down. Long-lived too — a decade is realistic for a well-kept group, which is longer than most of the fish you would put above them.
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<strong style="color:#FFC978;">Sand, not gravel. This is the one that matters.</strong>
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These fish feed by pushing their barbels and snout through the substrate. On sharp gravel the barbels wear down, then become infected, and a cory with no barbels cannot find food properly for the rest of its life. It is the most common injury in the hobby and it is entirely caused by substrate choice. Fine, smooth sand — and keep it clean, because bacteria in dirty substrate does the same damage.
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<p style="margin:0 0 8px;font-weight:700;color:#5FD4C4;">Emerald Catfish or Bronze Cory?</p>
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They are frequently confused and often sold interchangeably. Count the dorsal fin rays: this species has ten to twelve and a tall, broad dorsal, while <em>Corydoras aeneus</em> has around seven and a shorter one. The Emerald is also deeper-bodied, grows larger, and shows green rather than coppery-bronze. It is sometimes listed as <em>Corydoras splendens</em>; recent work has returned it to the genus <em>Brochis</em>.
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<h3 style="font-size:13px;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#5FD4C4;margin:0 0 12px;font-weight:700;">Care Snapshot</h3>

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<td style="padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);width:42%;color:#A9BCCB;">Scientific name</td>
<td style="padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#EAF0F5;"><em>Brochis splendens</em> (also listed as <em>Corydoras splendens</em>)</td>
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<td style="padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#A9BCCB;">Also known as</td>
<td style="padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#EAF0F5;">Emerald Brochis, Emerald Green Cory, Sailfin Cory</td>
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<td style="padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#A9BCCB;">Family</td>
<td style="padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#EAF0F5;">Callichthyidae — armoured catfishes</td>
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<td style="padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#A9BCCB;">Origin</td>
<td style="padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#EAF0F5;">Tank-bred; native to the upper Amazon basin</td>
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<td style="padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#A9BCCB;">Adult size</td>
<td style="padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#EAF0F5;">7–9 cm — larger than most corydoras</td>
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<td style="padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#A9BCCB;">Size on arrival</td>
<td style="padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#EAF0F5;">Approx. 2.5 cm</td>
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<td style="padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#A9BCCB;">Lifespan</td>
<td style="padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#EAF0F5;">5–10 years</td>
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<td style="padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#A9BCCB;">Minimum tank</td>
<td style="padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#EAF0F5;">100 litres, minimum 75 cm length — floor area matters</td>
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<td style="padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#A9BCCB;">Temperature</td>
<td style="padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#EAF0F5;">22–28 °C</td>
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<td style="padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#A9BCCB;">pH</td>
<td style="padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#EAF0F5;">6.0–7.8</td>
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<td style="padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#A9BCCB;">Hardness</td>
<td style="padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#EAF0F5;">2–18 dGH — tolerates hard water once acclimatised</td>
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<td style="padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#A9BCCB;">Substrate</td>
<td style="padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#EAF0F5;">Fine smooth sand — non-negotiable</td>
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<td style="padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#A9BCCB;">Diet</td>
<td style="padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#EAF0F5;">Omnivore — sinking foods, fed directly</td>
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<td style="padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#A9BCCB;">Temperament</td>
<td style="padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#EAF0F5;">Peaceful, shoaling; keep 6+</td>
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<td style="padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#A9BCCB;">Care level</td>
<td style="padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#EAF0F5;">Easy — given sand and proper feeding</td>
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<td style="padding:9px 12px;color:#A9BCCB;">Swimming zone</td>
<td style="padding:9px 12px;color:#EAF0F5;">Bottom; surfaces periodically to gulp air</td>
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<h3 style="font-size:13px;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#5FD4C4;margin:0 0 12px;font-weight:700;">Setting Up For It</h3>
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<li style="margin-bottom:9px;"><strong style="color:#FFFFFF;">Open sand, and plenty of it.</strong> Floor area is what counts for a bottom-dwelling shoal, not water volume. Leave broad clear stretches rather than carpeting the whole base with plants.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom:9px;"><strong style="color:#FFFFFF;">Keep the surface accessible.</strong> These catfish breathe atmospheric air through the gut and must be able to reach the surface. Dashing up and back down is normal behaviour, not distress — but a tank packed to the surface with floating plants restricts it.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom:9px;"><strong style="color:#FFFFFF;">Shade and shelter.</strong> Driftwood, broad-leaved plants and a dimmer light bring them out during the day. Under a bright bare tank they hide and only emerge at night.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom:9px;"><strong style="color:#FFFFFF;">Siphon the sand at every water change.</strong> Food and waste settle exactly where these fish feed. Dirty substrate is the second route to barbel damage after sharp gravel.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom:9px;"><strong style="color:#FFFFFF;">Gentle to moderate flow</strong>, with good oxygenation. They are not strong swimmers but they do want clean, well-moved water.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom:9px;"><strong style="color:#FFFFFF;">Keep six or more.</strong> Fewer than that and they stay hidden and inactive. A group is where the constant foraging behaviour comes from.</li>
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<h3 style="font-size:13px;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#5FD4C4;margin:0 0 12px;font-weight:700;">Tank Mates</h3>
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<p style="margin:0 0 8px;font-weight:700;color:#5FD4C4;">Good matches</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;color:#EAF0F5;">Tetras, rasboras, rainbowfish, Congo Tetra, Denison Barb, Bolivian Ram, Angelfish, Bristlenose Pleco, Otocinclus. Almost any peaceful mid or upper water fish — they occupy a level nothing else competes for.</p>
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<p style="margin:0 0 8px;font-weight:700;color:#FFC978;">Keep away from</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;color:#EAF0F5;">Aggressive or territorial cichlids, large predatory fish, and anything that claims the substrate. Also avoid very fast surface feeders if you are not prepared to feed the bottom separately — a cory left on scraps is a cory slowly starving.</p>
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<p style="margin:0 0 30px;font-size:15px;color:#A9BCCB;">Adult dwarf shrimp are generally safe alongside them, though shrimplets on open sand may be taken.</p>

<h3 style="font-size:13px;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#5FD4C4;margin:0 0 12px;font-weight:700;">Feeding — They Are Not A Cleanup Crew</h3>
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The most persistent myth about corydoras is that they live on leftovers. They do not. A group fed only on what drifts past the tetras will decline slowly over months, and because they are hardy fish it takes a long time to become obvious. Feed them deliberately, every day, with food that reaches the bottom.
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From the <strong style="color:#FFFFFF;">AQA</strong> range, use a sinking wafer or granule as the daily staple, with frozen bloodworm, brine shrimp or daphnia two or three times a week. Feed after the tank lights go off if faster fish are clearing everything first — these catfish are perfectly happy feeding in the dark.
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Watch body condition from above. A healthy Emerald Catfish is broad and solid across the shoulders; a thinning one narrows noticeably behind the head.
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<h3 style="font-size:13px;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#5FD4C4;margin:0 0 12px;font-weight:700;">Sexing & Breeding</h3>
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<strong style="color:#FFFFFF;">Females</strong> are larger and distinctly broader when viewed from above, particularly in condition. <strong style="color:#FFFFFF;">Males</strong> are smaller and slimmer with a more pointed outline. The difference is clear only in mature fish and is best judged looking down into the tank rather than through the glass.
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Breeding follows the corydoras pattern. Condition the group heavily on live and frozen food, then trigger spawning with a large water change using cooler water — mimicking the onset of the rainy season. The female carries eggs in a pouch formed by her pelvic fins and presses them onto glass, filter surfaces or broad leaves. Remove the eggs or the adults, as they will eat them. Fry hatch in three to five days and take baby brine shrimp and powdered food.
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<h3 style="font-size:13px;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#5FD4C4;margin:0 0 12px;font-weight:700;">Keeping It In Indian Conditions</h3>
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<li style="margin-bottom:9px;"><strong style="color:#FFFFFF;">Hard, alkaline tap water is fine for tank-bred stock.</strong> No RO or buffering needed. Room temperature across most of India sits inside the range for most of the year, so a heater is needed only for northern and hill-station winters.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom:9px;"><strong style="color:#FFFFFF;">Summer above 30 °C needs attention.</strong> Warm water holds less oxygen and these are bottom fish in the least oxygenated part of the tank. Expect more frequent trips to the surface. Increase surface agitation and run a fan across the water through April and May.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom:9px;"><strong style="color:#FFFFFF;">Substrate is the thing to get right locally.</strong> Most Indian aquarium shops sell sharp crushed gravel, which is precisely what damages barbels. Fine river sand is cheap and widely available — rinse it thoroughly until the water runs clear.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom:9px;">A large cool water change is a reliable spawning trigger, and in India the first heavy rains often set a group off on their own.</li>
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<h3 style="font-size:13px;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#5FD4C4;margin:0 0 12px;font-weight:700;">What You Receive</h3>
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Tank-bred juveniles, approximately 2.5 cm, quarantined and conditioned at our Bengaluru facility before dispatch. Sex cannot be determined at this size, and the green sheen deepens as the fish mature. Packed with oxygen and insulation for pan-India delivery.
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Covered by the Best4Pets live arrival guarantee. Please film an unboxing video before opening the bag — it is required for any DOA claim.
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