{"product_id":"cabomba-piauhyensis-1","title":"Cabomba piauhyensis","description":"\u003c!-- ============================================================\n     BEST4PETS.IN — PRODUCT DESCRIPTION BLOCK (DARK THEME)\n     Red Cabomba (Cabomba piauhyensis \/ C. furcata)\n     Paste into Shopify \u003e Product \u003e Description \u003e \"\u003c\u003e\" (Show HTML)\n     VERIFY BEFORE PUBLISHING: Indian naturalisation \/ regulatory status\n     ============================================================ --\u003e\n\n\u003cdiv style=\"font-family:-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,'Segoe UI',Roboto,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;color:#EAF0F5;line-height:1.65;font-size:16px;max-width:760px;\"\u003e\n\n  \u003c!-- HOOK --\u003e\n  \u003cp style=\"font-size:18px;line-height:1.6;margin:0 0 18px;color:#EAF0F5;\"\u003e\n    \u003cstrong style=\"color:#FFFFFF;\"\u003eThe hardest plant in this catalogue, and the one people keep coming back to.\u003c\/strong\u003e Red Cabomba carries the same fine feathered structure as its green relative, rendered in deep wine red through to purple-magenta, with fresh tips that glow almost pink under strong light. A properly grown stand is one of the genuine showpieces of the planted tank. Most stands are not properly grown.\n  \u003c\/p\u003e\n\n  \u003cp style=\"margin:0 0 22px;color:#EAF0F5;\"\u003e\n    This plant has a reputation for being impossible, and the reputation is half-earned. It is not fussy in a complicated way — it wants very strong light, injected CO\u003csub\u003e2\u003c\/sub\u003e, soft acidic water and complete stability, and it wants all four at once. Give it those and it grows fast and holds colour indefinitely. Miss one and it dismantles itself from the bottom up over a fortnight.\n  \u003c\/p\u003e\n\n  \u003c!-- HARD WARNING CALLOUT --\u003e\n  \u003cdiv style=\"border-left:4px solid #F2A03D;background:rgba(242,160,61,0.13);padding:14px 18px;margin:0 0 26px;border-radius:0 6px 6px 0;\"\u003e\n    \u003cp style=\"margin:0 0 10px;font-size:15px;color:#F7E4CB;\"\u003e\n      \u003cstrong style=\"color:#FFC978;\"\u003eThis is a high-tech plant. There is no low-tech version of it.\u003c\/strong\u003e\n    \u003c\/p\u003e\n    \u003cp style=\"margin:0;font-size:15px;color:#F7E4CB;\"\u003e\n      Injected CO\u003csub\u003e2\u003c\/sub\u003e and high light are requirements, not improvements. Liquid carbon is not a substitute, and in some formulations actively melts this genus. If your tank is not running pressurised CO\u003csub\u003e2\u003c\/sub\u003e under strong lighting, this plant will die and nothing in your fertiliser routine will prevent it. For red colour in a lower-tech setup, Ludwigia or Rotala rotundifolia are far better choices and we would honestly rather sell you those.\n    \u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/div\u003e\n\n  \u003c!-- ID PANEL --\u003e\n  \u003cdiv style=\"border:1px solid rgba(95,212,196,0.35);background:rgba(95,212,196,0.08);border-radius:8px;padding:16px 18px;margin:0 0 30px;\"\u003e\n    \u003cp style=\"margin:0 0 8px;font-weight:700;color:#5FD4C4;\"\u003eTelling it apart from Green Cabomba\u003c\/p\u003e\n    \u003cp style=\"margin:0;font-size:15px;color:#EAF0F5;\"\u003e\n      Beyond colour, the arrangement differs: this species carries its leaves in whorls of three around the stem, while \u003cem\u003eCabomba caroliniana\u003c\/em\u003e carries them in opposite pairs. Useful when stock arrives poorly coloured, since a starved red cabomba can look green. The name \u003cem\u003eCabomba piauhyensis\u003c\/em\u003e is widely used in the trade; the currently accepted name for this plant is \u003cem\u003eCabomba furcata\u003c\/em\u003e.\n    \u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/div\u003e\n\n  \u003c!-- QUICK FACTS --\u003e\n  \u003ch3 style=\"font-size:13px;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#5FD4C4;margin:0 0 12px;font-weight:700;\"\u003eCare Snapshot\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n  \u003ctable style=\"width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;margin:0 0 30px;font-size:15px;color:#EAF0F5;\"\u003e\n    \u003ctbody\u003e\n      \u003ctr style=\"background:rgba(255,255,255,0.06);\"\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);width:42%;color:#A9BCCB;\"\u003eScientific name\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#EAF0F5;\"\u003e\n\u003cem\u003eCabomba piauhyensis\u003c\/em\u003e (accepted: \u003cem\u003eC. furcata\u003c\/em\u003e)\u003c\/td\u003e\n      \u003c\/tr\u003e\n      \u003ctr\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#A9BCCB;\"\u003eAlso known as\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#EAF0F5;\"\u003eRed Cabomba, Purple Cabomba, Forked Fanwort\u003c\/td\u003e\n      \u003c\/tr\u003e\n      \u003ctr style=\"background:rgba(255,255,255,0.06);\"\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#A9BCCB;\"\u003eFamily\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#EAF0F5;\"\u003eCabombaceae\u003c\/td\u003e\n      \u003c\/tr\u003e\n      \u003ctr\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#A9BCCB;\"\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#EAF0F5;\"\u003eTropical Central and South America\u003c\/td\u003e\n      \u003c\/tr\u003e\n      \u003ctr style=\"background:rgba(255,255,255,0.06);\"\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#A9BCCB;\"\u003ePlant type\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#EAF0F5;\"\u003eRooted stem plant\u003c\/td\u003e\n      \u003c\/tr\u003e\n      \u003ctr\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#A9BCCB;\"\u003ePlacement\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#EAF0F5;\"\u003eBackground or mid-ground accent, in tight groups\u003c\/td\u003e\n      \u003c\/tr\u003e\n      \u003ctr style=\"background:rgba(255,255,255,0.06);\"\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#A9BCCB;\"\u003eGrowth rate\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#EAF0F5;\"\u003eFast when conditions are right; stalls completely when not\u003c\/td\u003e\n      \u003c\/tr\u003e\n      \u003ctr\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#A9BCCB;\"\u003eLighting\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#EAF0F5;\"\u003eVery high — required for both growth and colour\u003c\/td\u003e\n      \u003c\/tr\u003e\n      \u003ctr style=\"background:rgba(255,255,255,0.06);\"\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#A9BCCB;\"\u003eCO\u003csub\u003e2\u003c\/sub\u003e\n\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#EAF0F5;\"\u003ePressurised injection essential\u003c\/td\u003e\n      \u003c\/tr\u003e\n      \u003ctr\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#A9BCCB;\"\u003eTemperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#EAF0F5;\"\u003e24–28 °C\u003c\/td\u003e\n      \u003c\/tr\u003e\n      \u003ctr style=\"background:rgba(255,255,255,0.06);\"\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#A9BCCB;\"\u003epH\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#EAF0F5;\"\u003e5.5–7.0 — acidic required\u003c\/td\u003e\n      \u003c\/tr\u003e\n      \u003ctr\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#A9BCCB;\"\u003eHardness\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#EAF0F5;\"\u003eSoft, low KH — hard water is the usual killer\u003c\/td\u003e\n      \u003c\/tr\u003e\n      \u003ctr style=\"background:rgba(255,255,255,0.06);\"\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#A9BCCB;\"\u003eSubstrate\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#EAF0F5;\"\u003eAquasoil strongly preferred over inert sand\u003c\/td\u003e\n      \u003c\/tr\u003e\n      \u003ctr\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#A9BCCB;\"\u003eFertilisation\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#EAF0F5;\"\u003eDaily water-column dosing; iron and full traces\u003c\/td\u003e\n      \u003c\/tr\u003e\n      \u003ctr style=\"background:rgba(255,255,255,0.06);\"\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#A9BCCB;\"\u003eFlow\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.14);color:#EAF0F5;\"\u003eGentle but even — stems are brittle, distribution matters\u003c\/td\u003e\n      \u003c\/tr\u003e\n      \u003ctr\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;color:#A9BCCB;\"\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003ctd style=\"padding:9px 12px;color:#EAF0F5;\"\u003eAdvanced — one of the most demanding stem plants in the hobby\u003c\/td\u003e\n      \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n  \u003c\/table\u003e\n\n  \u003c!-- PLANTING --\u003e\n  \u003ch3 style=\"font-size:13px;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#5FD4C4;margin:0 0 12px;font-weight:700;\"\u003ePlanting It\u003c\/h3\u003e\n  \u003cul style=\"margin:0 0 30px;padding-left:20px;color:#EAF0F5;\"\u003e\n    \u003cli style=\"margin-bottom:9px;\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong style=\"color:#FFFFFF;\"\u003ePlant it the day it arrives.\u003c\/strong\u003e This species deteriorates faster out of established water than almost anything else you can buy. Have the tank ready before you order.\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli style=\"margin-bottom:9px;\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong style=\"color:#FFFFFF;\"\u003eCut the band and separate every stem.\u003c\/strong\u003e Discard any crushed section. A banded bunch rots at the base within days, and here it will take the whole bunch with it.\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli style=\"margin-bottom:9px;\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong style=\"color:#FFFFFF;\"\u003eStrip the lowest whorl and bury 3–4 cm of bare stem\u003c\/strong\u003e, spacing stems 2–3 cm apart so light reaches the lower foliage.\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli style=\"margin-bottom:9px;\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong style=\"color:#FFFFFF;\"\u003ePut it directly under the strongest part of the light.\u003c\/strong\u003e Not shaded by hardscape, not behind taller plants. Red colour is a response to light intensity; in shade it reverts to green and then thins.\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli style=\"margin-bottom:9px;\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong style=\"color:#FFFFFF;\"\u003eGet CO\u003csub\u003e2\u003c\/sub\u003e stable before planting, not after.\u003c\/strong\u003e Fluctuating CO\u003csub\u003e2\u003c\/sub\u003e is the most common cause of collapse, more than any nutrient deficiency.\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli style=\"margin-bottom:9px;\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong style=\"color:#FFFFFF;\"\u003eDose iron consistently.\u003c\/strong\u003e The red pigment is iron-dependent and this plant is a heavy feeder. Small daily doses beat one large weekly dose.\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli style=\"margin-bottom:9px;\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong style=\"color:#FFFFFF;\"\u003eDo not let nitrate bottom out.\u003c\/strong\u003e Unlike some red plants, starving it of nitrogen to force colour simply kills it. Keep the water column fed.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n  \u003c!-- PROBLEMS --\u003e\n  \u003ch3 style=\"font-size:13px;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#5FD4C4;margin:0 0 12px;font-weight:700;\"\u003eWhat Usually Goes Wrong\u003c\/h3\u003e\n  \u003cp style=\"margin:0 0 12px;color:#EAF0F5;\"\u003e\n    \u003cstrong style=\"color:#FFFFFF;\"\u003eIt melts in the first fortnight.\u003c\/strong\u003e Expect some. Stock grown under different light and CO\u003csub\u003e2\u003c\/sub\u003e sheds its old foliage while adapting. Leave the stems in place, hold conditions absolutely steady, and watch the growing tips — if they are producing new whorls, it is recovering. Resist the urge to move it, re-dose heavily, or change anything.\n  \u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003cp style=\"margin:0 0 12px;color:#EAF0F5;\"\u003e\n    \u003cstrong style=\"color:#FFFFFF;\"\u003eIt turns green.\u003c\/strong\u003e Insufficient light reaching the plant, or an iron shortfall. Colour is not a variety trait you have bought — it is maintained daily by intensity and nutrition.\n  \u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003cp style=\"margin:0 0 12px;color:#EAF0F5;\"\u003e\n    \u003cstrong style=\"color:#FFFFFF;\"\u003eIt strips from the bottom and floats away.\u003c\/strong\u003e The end stage of a light or CO\u003csub\u003e2\u003c\/sub\u003e shortfall. Once a stem loses its lower half it will not refoliate. Cut the healthy tops, replant them, and discard the old stalks.\n  \u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003cp style=\"margin:0 0 30px;color:#EAF0F5;\"\u003e\n    \u003cstrong style=\"color:#FFFFFF;\"\u003eIt gets buried in hair algae.\u003c\/strong\u003e The fine foliage traps filament algae and cannot be cleaned — no shrimp or otocinclus will get it out. Fix the cause (CO\u003csub\u003e2\u003c\/sub\u003e stability, photoperiod, nutrient balance) and restart from clean tops. Trying to salvage an algae-covered stand almost never works.\n  \u003c\/p\u003e\n\n  \u003c!-- PROPAGATION --\u003e\n  \u003ch3 style=\"font-size:13px;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#5FD4C4;margin:0 0 12px;font-weight:700;\"\u003eTrimming \u0026amp; Propagation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n  \u003cp style=\"margin:0 0 30px;color:#EAF0F5;\"\u003e\n    Cut a healthy stem, strip the lowest whorl from the cutting, and replant it alongside the parent. Cuttings root within days when the tank is running well. This species does not tolerate repeated hard pruning of old stems the way Rotala does, so the sustainable approach is rolling replacement: take fresh tops regularly and retire the tired lower stalks. A stand maintained this way holds its density and colour for years. One left uncut becomes a bare-stemmed mess.\n  \u003c\/p\u003e\n\n  \u003c!-- INVASIVE WARNING --\u003e\n  \u003ch3 style=\"font-size:13px;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#5FD4C4;margin:0 0 12px;font-weight:700;\"\u003eNever Release It — This One Matters\u003c\/h3\u003e\n  \u003cp style=\"margin:0 0 30px;color:#EAF0F5;\"\u003e\n    Cabomba is among the most damaging aquarium plant invasives worldwide. A single broken fragment can root and establish, and in warm, nutrient-rich, low-flow water these species form dense mats that displace native vegetation, strip oxygen from the water column and block waterways and irrigation channels. Members of this genus have naturalised well outside their native range, including in tropical Asia, and the aquarium trade is the documented pathway. \u003cstrong style=\"color:#FFFFFF;\"\u003eNever put trimmings into a drain, pond, lake, canal or storm water line.\u003c\/strong\u003e Dry cuttings out completely, or bag them and put them in household waste. Better still, pass surplus stems to another aquarist. This takes ten seconds and it is the most important thing on this page.\n  \u003c\/p\u003e\n\n  \u003c!-- INDIA NOTES --\u003e\n  \u003ch3 style=\"font-size:13px;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#5FD4C4;margin:0 0 12px;font-weight:700;\"\u003eGrowing It In Indian Conditions\u003c\/h3\u003e\n  \u003cul style=\"margin:0 0 30px;padding-left:20px;color:#EAF0F5;\"\u003e\n    \u003cli style=\"margin-bottom:9px;\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong style=\"color:#FFFFFF;\"\u003eHard alkaline tap water is the single biggest obstacle.\u003c\/strong\u003e This plant needs soft, low-KH, acidic water, which is the opposite of most Indian municipal supplies. Unlike Green Cabomba, it does not simply grow more slowly in hard water — it generally fails. Plan on an RO blend and an aquasoil substrate, or choose a different red plant.\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli style=\"margin-bottom:9px;\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong style=\"color:#FFFFFF;\"\u003eSummer heat compounds everything.\u003c\/strong\u003e Above 28 °C, CO\u003csub\u003e2\u003c\/sub\u003e solubility drops, oxygen falls and algae accelerates — the exact conditions in which this plant collapses. Through April and May in the plains, expect to lose ground and replant fresh tops afterwards.\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli style=\"margin-bottom:9px;\"\u003eBengaluru, Pune and hill-station tanks hold it far more reliably year-round, and are where it is genuinely worth attempting.\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli style=\"margin-bottom:9px;\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong style=\"color:#FFFFFF;\"\u003eDispose of trimmings responsibly.\u003c\/strong\u003e Warm Indian water bodies are precisely the conditions in which this genus establishes and spreads. Dry cuttings fully before discarding and never rinse them into an outdoor drain.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n  \u003c!-- WHAT YOU GET --\u003e\n  \u003cdiv style=\"border-top:2px solid #5FD4C4;padding-top:18px;\"\u003e\n    \u003ch3 style=\"font-size:13px;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#5FD4C4;margin:0 0 12px;font-weight:700;\"\u003eWhat You Receive\u003c\/h3\u003e\n    \u003cp style=\"margin:0 0 10px;font-size:15px;color:#EAF0F5;\"\u003e\n      A banded bunch of healthy stems, grown and held at our Bengaluru facility. Stem length, branching and colour intensity vary naturally, and colour will shift to match your own lighting and dosing within a few weeks. Remove the band and separate the stems before planting. Some transition melt in the first fortnight is normal for this species and is not a fault.\n    \u003c\/p\u003e\n    \u003cp style=\"margin:0;font-size:15px;color:#A9BCCB;\"\u003e\n      Covered by the Best4Pets live arrival guarantee. Please film an unboxing video before opening the bag — it is required for any DOA claim. We recommend confirming your tank is running stable pressurised CO\u003csub\u003e2\u003c\/sub\u003e under high light before ordering.\n    \u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Best4Pets","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44888385781849,"sku":null,"price":75.0,"currency_code":"INR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0075\/9814\/5587\/files\/Cabomba-piauhyensis.jpg?v=1789398719","url":"https:\/\/www.best4pets.in\/products\/cabomba-piauhyensis-1","provider":"Best4Pets","version":"1.0","type":"link"}